Why cant you use a normal ratchet to take out spark plugs?

"thebigbossyboss" (thebigbossyboss) 09/14/2013 at 21:57 • Filed to: None

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Hey Oppo. I have a question

I am not very mechanically inclined, but I am trying to wrench more on my car, so I went and bought spark plugs. Exciting. Now, I bought a special ratchet set with all sorts of cool stuff including a plug gapper (although my plugs are pre gapped, but it was in the set), but the ratchet that comes with the set is really wierd. Its bent near the handle. My question, to you oppo, is why cant a normal ratchet be used?

DocWalt > thebigbossyboss 09/14/2013 at 21:59

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Not a clue, I use a normal ratchet or breaker bar with an extension to reach my plugs.

Clown Shoe Pilot > thebigbossyboss 09/14/2013 at 22:00

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I use a normal ratchet. Depending on the car, having a flex head ratchet might be nice at times, but I usually just end up using a wobbler

dogisbadob > thebigbossyboss 09/14/2013 at 22:03

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A normal ratchet can be used, but you just need a spark plug socket that contains a little rubber thing inside to pick up the old plug, and sometimes an extension if the tube isdeep

PowderHound > thebigbossyboss 09/14/2013 at 22:10

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I use a normal ratchet with some odd combination of extensions and removing them at certain times until I am backing them out via extension by hand. mumble mumble damned H4's

bb5555 > thebigbossyboss 09/14/2013 at 22:12

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Be professional; Use an actual "Spark Plug" socket because it has sufficient room inside (the socket) to accommodate the length of the spark plug, in addition to having a soft (rubberish) gasket-like material which acts as a cushion against the spark plug to prevent damage to the spark plug itself (by the socket). Spend a few dollars to have one or more of these in your tool box and you will glad when you do NOT break spark plugs in especially difficult to reach locations.

doodon2whls > PowderHound 09/14/2013 at 22:18

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Same deal on the 2nd Gen Durangos...

thebigbossyboss > bb5555 09/14/2013 at 22:29

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This thing came with actual spark plug sockets. So +1 on that front!

Dakotacowboy > dogisbadob 09/14/2013 at 22:31

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Ran into this situation on my first gen Neon. The plugs are in the top center of each cylinder, right in the middle of all 4 valves. You cannot remove those plugs without a socket and medium length extension. As long as you had those tools though, it was easy.

desertdog5051 > thebigbossyboss 09/14/2013 at 22:35

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I have one of those. It is intended to allow more flexibility in tight or restricted engine compartments. It allows you to not have the ratchet handle up against a fender well or some other obstruction and not be able to grab it. Comes in handy sometimes.

bb5555 > thebigbossyboss 09/14/2013 at 22:39

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Also, can you further explain "bent near the handle" (or perhaps supply a photo or at least a link to a similar-looking tool); sounds like your particular socket wrench has a bendy portion to more easily accommodate spark plug extraction in hard to reach locations; like up against the firewall or under an alternator or under a power steering pump or some other difficult to reach area in the engine bay.

Grindintosecond > thebigbossyboss 09/14/2013 at 22:50

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I had a volvo 242. The inckuded tool kit had a lug nut socket with metal pry bar (for hubcaps) that went through it. It also petfectly fit and was perfect depth for spark plugs. Imagine that...some forward thinking that no longer exists in todays cars...a factory tool kit.

bb5555 > thebigbossyboss 09/14/2013 at 22:55

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At the BigBossyBoss: Spark Plug Gap Setting Tool: As you mentioned this type of tool (in the set you purchased), you may wish to locate and speak with a "certified" auto mechanic who may (say for a small fee, like $10.00, or so) explain the proper use of your spark plug gap setting tool. These devices are relatively easy to use "if you know how to use them" butt they can and will damage your spark plugs so that they (the spark plugs) are unusable when using this tool in an incorrect or unsafe fashion. Be safe rather than sorry; learn how to use tools "before" you damage them or your vehicle.

desertdog5051 > desertdog5051 09/14/2013 at 22:57

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I should expound on that. In the case of my sons Bronco, there is little room for an extension and a regular ratchet hits obstructions like the exhaust manifold. It allows you to move the handle away from the manifold to give you more swing. If you understand what I am saying.

thebigbossyboss > desertdog5051 09/14/2013 at 23:14

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I actually understood you perfectly the first time. It makes sense.

thebigbossyboss > bb5555 09/14/2013 at 23:17

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The ratchet is bent, on it's handle. I guess not near its handle

thebigbossyboss > Grindintosecond 09/14/2013 at 23:18

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That is really neat!!

thebigbossyboss > dogisbadob 09/14/2013 at 23:19

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I got those. I think I am good to attempt this. My only other question is what do you use to keep your plugs from locking up so that you can get them out in another 100k miles? wd 40 or similar?

dogisbadob > thebigbossyboss 09/14/2013 at 23:24

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They usually throw in a little packet of anti-seize compound when you buy a set of plugs, but if not it's only like $1 or so.

bb5555 > thebigbossyboss 09/14/2013 at 23:57

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The 3-inch tool on the left is an extension.

The longer bendy tool in the center is a ratchet wrench designed for hard to reach spots and to provide a bit of extra "torque" during use. The three sockets on the right are spark plug socket wrenches in various sizes (to fit different spark plugs). The gauge is a spark plug gap setting tool whose use would be much easier explained (in person) by a "certified" auto mechanic. Happy wrenching!

thebigbossyboss > bb5555 09/15/2013 at 00:18

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Thanks, I am curious to learn about this "gapping" tool.

thebigbossyboss > thebigbossyboss 09/15/2013 at 19:37

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Welp...I changed the plugs. It worked really well. Useful tool that.

thebigbossyboss > bb5555 09/15/2013 at 19:48

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I learned how to gap on the youtubes. It was easy.

Then, I took my throttle cable, and moved it out of the way, I detached the cable and bent its bracket up. Then I removed the clip which holds the ignition wires using my car key to lift the clip.

Then I got my normal ratchet and ratcheted off the 4 bolts that hold the engine cover. Then I took my funny looking ratchet, put on the extensions and the 3/8ths spark plug socket and twisted all 4 sockets out. The plugs came out with relative ease, and the rubber socket helped pick them up.

Then, I gapped my new sockets and .042 inches, which is the gap recommended in my manual. Then, I used a flathead screw driver to put a bit of dialectric grease in the boots. Then I used anti seize lubricant on my threads of my new spark plugs, and rechecked the gaps.

Then I was ready to put my new plugs in, so I loaded them into my spark plug socket on my nifty ratchet, and put them in snugly, but not too tight. Then I put the boots and engine cover on and re torqued the 4 bolts holding the cover. Then I put back the throttle cable, and the bracket that holds it.

Then the moment of truth....it worked!! Idles a lot smoother now too! Huzzah!

thebigbossyboss > dogisbadob 09/15/2013 at 19:51

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I got the anti seize, and replaced my plugs. Anti seize was $1.79. The flexible ratchet made it so easy!

dogisbadob > thebigbossyboss 09/15/2013 at 19:52

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Glad you got it done!

bb5555 > thebigbossyboss 09/15/2013 at 23:27

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Nicely done sir! Glad it all worked so well for you, and happy that you had few (if any) problems. You may wish to look into a larger tool set for your next project; I recommend name-brand decent tools - you will never be sorry for dollars spent on really good tools - they will usually last a lifetime (and then some).